Scoop warm flesh and pass through a ricer into a bowl, or mash very finely. The aroma will be warm and tuberous, and the texture should be completely lump-free.

Add the beaten egg and salt, then sprinkle most of the flour over the potato. Use a light touch - combine gently with a bench scraper or hands just until a soft dough forms. It should be slightly tacky, not sticky.

Turn dough onto a lightly floured surface and divide into 4 portions. Roll each into a 2 cm (3/4 inch) rope. You'll feel the dough tighten slightly as you roll - that's a good sign.

Cut ropes into 2 cm (3/4 inch) pieces. For ridged gnocchi, press and roll each piece over a fork or gnocchi board; the grooves help sauce cling and release a toasted note when pan-fried.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a gentle boil. Cook gnocchi in batches to avoid crowding; they float when done, about 2-3 minutes. The surface becomes glossy and the aroma turns slightly sweet and toasty.

Remove with a slotted spoon to a warm pan with melted butter and fresh sage if you like, and toss until edges pick up golden crisp spots. That contrast between pillowy interior and seared edge is irresistible.